Destination Earth: Notes on Tanna, Vanuatu

Jon Frum and The World Cup

2006-06-30T15:54:00.000+10:00

While it may seem impossible that we had time to do anything else in Tanna (we were only there for four nights), we managed to get in one more tour: Jon Frum night!

I had a read a lot of information about the Jon Frum cargo cult, which was brought about in a The-God's-Must-be-Crazy kind of way--when US Troops arrived in Efate and Santo in the 1940's with their refrigerators, radios, and Coca-Cola, a lot of which dropped from the sky via divine parachutes or landed in majestic cargo birds.

There is a lot of contradictory information on Jon Frum, and Jon Frum villages often contradict each other. Jon Frum was formed as a resistance to Christian missionaries. No, it was the missionaries who promised them wealth if they turned to God. No, the movement has been opposed by missionaries. No, the movement has nothing to do with missionaries.

Jon Frum Day is February 15th, when supporters raise an American flag, wear blue jeans, and march in a military parade with bamboo rifles. Apparently a lot of journalists bring material goods like torches and toys to feed the myth.

One thing is for sure, though. Jon Frums everywhere are waiting for Jon Frum's return, when he will bring them an abundance of cargo goods. Some have even built airstrips for the cargo plane. They gather within their villages on Friday nights to sing songs about him and support the movement.

But who is Jon Frum?

Jon Frum is a god who lives in the crater of Mount Yasur. He's the brother of Mt Tukosmera. He's American. He's African-American. He's an American GI. He's Prince Philip, or any combination thereof.

In the village we traveled to, Jon Frum was in the image of Uncle Sam. There was a picture of him hanging on a piece of wood, overlooking the supporters as they sang and danced in his honor.

I was very intrigued about the Jon Frum movement and couldn't wait to pick the supporters' brains about their beliefs and traditions. When we arrived in the village, however, I quickly discovered that no one was interested in discussing Jon Frum. They were interested in discussing the World Cup. Did we have a television at our bungalow? Could we give them an update? Who did we support?

Although we only stayed for the first band, there are several that play, and the dancing goes until daylight. I don't know how the villagers managed. When our driver dropped us off around 8:00, everyone already looked very tired. The men were obviously drinking kava, but there were also children sleeping in the roots of a banyan tree or in their mother's laps, and Ashlinn, a teenager who sat beside me, couldn't stop yawning.

The gathering was small, as there was a flu going around the village. The music was lively. The songs were sung in their native language and sounded the same. The only word I recognized was, "Hallelujah." The band was made up of men playing guitars and drums and singing. The atmosphere was very relaxed. Men and women could sit and watch, or they could dance. But they don't dance together. The men tap their toes to the left of the shelter, while the women dance up and down in the shadows on the right.

Brett and I watched the colorful grass skirts swaying to the music in the shadows for a few songs. Then he decided to do some toe-tapping with the men and discuss the World Cup with Willie. I made small talk with Ashlinn, who was one of the few villagers who spoke English. She was also one of five who backed Brazil in the World Cup. Everyone else went for Australia. Go the Aussies!

Even though she looked like she was on the verge of sleep, Ashlinn invited me to dance. We went around to the women's side, where another teenager wrapped a grass skirt around me. I told her, "Merci," which sparked my first and only full conversation in French (other than the kastom village, everyone spoke English). I impressed myself, until she said something I could not understand, and the conversation ended.

We danced for an hour or so, and when our driver still hadn't returned, the girls teased me that he was drunk on kava. He was from their village, so I believed them. I started panicking, as given the dancing goes until morning; no one would have missed us at the resort.

Eventually he returned. It'd been a long day (see "Blue Cave" and "The Giant Banyan Tree"), so we said our farewells. On the drive back, it struck me like a slap on the forehead what the girl had said: World Cup.

Brett Finally Got His Lobster

2006-06-29T08:23:00.000+10:00

The Giant Banyan Tree

2006-06-28T10:47:00.000+10:00

When we got back from the Blue Cave, Happy Sam took us to the local market and then to see the giant banyan tree. It was a sight. Because it sits in a gully, you can't see it coming. I did actually gasp, when I spotted it. With the sunlight shining through the branches, it looked majestical. Organ music played in my head. Being 170-meters in circumference, I could only capture pieces, which you'll have to put together like a puzzle:

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Aw, Billy Goat

2006-06-28T10:44:00.000+10:00

Kava

Blue Cave

2006-06-27T22:01:00.000+10:00

Friday morning we had planned on seeing the big banyan tree, going back up to the White Grass Plains and doing some more snorkeling around the resort. Mais quelle surprise, Simon and his son, Clifford, were waiting to take us to Blue Cave. The full moon was gone, and the sea was back to normal.

We got in Simon's dinghy and headed out to sea. It's best to view Blue Cave when the sun is directly over it, so we had some time to kill. We snorkeled around a few reefs, which were pretty good (though got cold after awhile). I saw a sea snake wearing a zebra-print skin with an electric blue stripe down his side. He scared the beejesus out of me.

Then Clifford showed us this cave where his ancestors used to gather during cyclones. It was okay for a cave. I took a picture from the boat:

Blue Cave was well worth the wait. To get there, you have to duck under the rock between those two crevices:

I don't have any photos of inside the cave, as I lost my underwater camera (see "Coral, Hibiscus, and Kava"). It was pretty spectacular, though. The sun shone down through a hole in the top of the cave like a Cathedral. The reflection of the sun on the water and the walls of the cave made everything a very cool blue.

2006-06-27T21:58:00.000+10:00

Clifford's Quote of the Day: "I don't want a woman, because once you have a woman all you do is fight. I prefer to be alone."

2006-06-27T21:57:00.000+10:00

Simon's Quote of the Day (said in utter disbelief and annoyance): "Yes, but if you have no woman, who will cook your food?"

2006-06-27T21:56:00.000+10:00

Land Hoy!

2006-06-27T21:55:00.000+10:00

White Grass Ocean Resort

Kava Take Two

2006-06-25T09:15:00.000+10:00

On the way back from Louniel, Brett started talking to our drive, Louie, about kava. Kava must be what Huey Lewis was looking for. It's the only legal narcotic in the world and has no damaging side effects. Anyway, Brett explained that we had tried some and it didn't really do anything. Louie said the bar we went to wasn't very good and that he could get us onto some better stuff.

We joined Louie that afternoon, while he picked up and dropped off employees of the resort. The problem was that it was a Thursday. In Tanna, market day is Friday and Monday, and by the time Thursday comes around, most of the kava bars are out of kava. So we didn't get to try Louie's favorite but went to another one. I'm peeved this photo didn't turn out, but I'm posting it anyway. It's the only picture we have of Louie. Also, notice Brett's jersey. Whenever he wore that, he was always greeted with a chorus of, "Australia!" The people of Tanna love Australia, and most of them back Australia in the world cup.

We took the kava back to the hotel and drank it, while watching the sunset. It was stronger than the last mix but still didn't have much of an effect. Kava is supposed to make you feel tired and relaxed. We'd spent all day hiking, swimming, and horseback riding, and this was our view:

So it was hard to tell what was the kava and what was just the effects of a perfect day. Once the sun went down, we saw the Milky Way, the Southern Cross, and even wished upon a shooting star.

2006-06-24T09:38:00.000+10:00

Mommy eat kava.

2006-06-24T09:36:00.000+10:00

The Perfect Evening

2006-06-24T09:34:00.000+10:00

Hibiscus at Dusk

2006-06-24T09:32:00.000+10:00

Sunset at White Grass Ocean Resort

2006-06-24T09:00:00.000+10:00

Kava by Sunset

Bagga Bagger

2006-06-23T12:48:00.000+10:00

On Thursday, we went to Louniel Village, where we met Chief Jack and his family:

Oh, Chief Jack, where do I start with Chief Jack? Chief Jack is Chief, and when asked about his role as chief (come to think of it, I don't even think we asked, he just told us), Chief Jack said something along the lines of, "If I want to do something in the village, I can do something. If I don't feel like doing anything, I don't have to do anything, because I am Chief."

He was very friendly and talkative and extremely open to suggestions about his new money-making venture: "Bagga Baggers." 15 Uni students camped out on his land a while back, and possibly over a few Tuskers, told Chief Jack that beach huts would lure the tourists. So Chief Jack ordered his village to commence building huts on the beach to be equipped with a table and bed. Then Brett came along and suggested the marketing term, "Backpackers."

Chief Jack was very impressed with this idea and throughout the course of day would mumble, "Bagga Baggers" and smile slyly to himself. Just as Chief Jack never tired of this word, Brett and I didn't either. "Bagga Baggers," like a Wiggle's song, played continuously in my head.

The Bagga Bagger:

Chief Jack's son, Daniel (who will one day be Chief), took us for a hike down to the waterfall. The water was very cold, but considering the distance we traveled, it didn't deter us from a quick swim.

After the waterfall, we drove to Black Sand Beach, home of the Bagga Baggers. Brett and I went horseback riding. Brett and Daniel went bodyboarding, and I just splashed around. It was a really tough decision, but Brett and I both decided that other than the volcano, this was our favorite tour. We exchanged addresses with Chief Jack and look forward to his visit.

2006-06-23T10:29:00.000+10:00

Waterfall

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A Spectactular View of Black Sand Beach

2006-06-23T08:59:00.000+10:00

A Glorious View of Black Sand Beach

2006-06-23T08:58:00.000+10:00

Another Great View

2006-06-23T08:57:00.000+10:00

And Yet Another Great View

2006-06-23T08:55:00.000+10:00

Roasting Yams

2006-06-23T08:53:00.000+10:00

Black Sand Beach

2006-06-23T07:58:00.000+10:00

The Other Side of Black Sand Beach

2006-06-23T07:56:00.000+10:00

Bodyboarding with Daniel

Mount Yasur

2006-06-22T21:02:00.000+10:00

The ride to the volcano was an adventure within itself. We took the scenic route through the White Grass Plains to see the wild horses and coffee plantations. The conditions were wet, and the road (which was mostly a muddy path) was slippery. We were serenaded by some locals as part of an employment creation project. The choir was great, including a surly teenage, pantsless toddler, and kid in a tree. The children gave us bouquets of flowers. It was sweet.

The scariest part of the ride was the cattle crossing, which was some old rusty poles over a ditch about 1 ½ meters wide and a couple meters deep. The poles bent as we drove over them and some even fell in. A guy standing beside the road put them back on. I think that was actually his job.

Driving over the ash plains felt like being on the moon, and the drive back at night (when Brett and I rode in the front seat) with the headlights beaming through endless black sand was one of the most eerie moments of my life. Five thumbs up to Happy Sam, though, for some incredible driving. The road up the mountain was steep and muddy, a single lane with the occasional head-on confrontation.

The weather remained overcast, though thankfully it didn't rain while we were at the volcano. The walk to the top of the crater is about 200 meters. It's steep and like hiking up a sand dune. That's pretty much what the volcano was like: a black sand dune. The ledge is narrow, and you have to get all the way to the top to see inside the craters. And it was WINDY! Forget fear of flying hot lava. I was scared of being blown in!

While there weren't any when we went, some of the people staying at the resort did see young children up there. Obviously these parents are insane and deluded. The travel guides do suggest it's okay for over fours, but I was struggling merely holding onto my camera. If you've come across my blog and are wondering whether or not to take your children to the top of a live volcano, I'm no expert but my advice is, "Leave the kids with the in-laws! Are you crazy?!"

Here are five reasons not to take your children to the top of Mount Yasur:

1)You don't know what the conditions will be like until you actually get there.
2)There is hot lava as big as televisions soaring into the air. As we were walking back down the mountain, one flew about 10 meters to the left of where we had been standing.
3)The ledge is narrow, and as Brett pointed out, one big ka-boom and the whole thing could collapse.
4)It is dangerously windy.
5)It could erupt.

That being said, it was a truly amazing experience, and I recommend it to the young at heart and the fogeys who need adventure in their lives. Don't fret. There is an escape plan. It's called, "Run down the mountain as fast as you can!"

My photos don't do Yasur justice. Because of the delay in the camera and using my softball skills for real life ("Keep your eye on the . . . Lava!"), my shots are all post explosion. Brett, however, got some excellent footage on the video camera. I will try to find a way to upload it. If not, all visitors will be subject to a forty-minute Volcanic Video Experience. I have uploaded a couple of videos from the digital camera merely for the audio. Listen to that wind! It even drowns out the roar of the volcano.

2006-06-22T15:32:00.000+10:00

Our Ride

2006-06-22T15:29:00.000+10:00

Moonscape

2006-06-22T15:27:00.000+10:00

Mount Yasur

2006-06-22T15:25:00.000+10:00

That patch of green was a lake in 2003, until a dam burst.

2006-06-22T15:21:00.000+10:00

Actually one of the cleanest public toilets I've been to

2006-06-22T15:18:00.000+10:00

The World's Only Volcano Post

2006-06-22T15:16:00.000+10:00

Lava Rocks on the Side of the Mountain

2006-06-22T15:15:00.000+10:00

This is a good shot to show where we were in relation to the holes. The big hole is the one furthest from us, but there was a smaller one in front that looked like it used to be two.

2006-06-22T15:06:00.000+10:00

Fireworks

2006-06-22T15:03:00.000+10:00

Smoke from the Big Hole

2006-06-22T15:00:00.000+10:00

Hi Mom!

2006-06-22T14:59:00.000+10:00

Happy Sam, our guide, sitting on the inside of the crater. Crazy locals.

2006-06-22T14:57:00.000+10:00

Surreal Twilight

2006-06-22T14:55:00.000+10:00

She's a hot one!

2006-06-22T14:54:00.000+10:00

Fire in the Hole

2006-06-22T14:02:00.000+10:00

Another explosion

2006-06-22T13:39:00.000+10:00

2006-06-22T09:50:00.000+10:00

Epai

2006-06-21T19:31:00.000+10:00

Brett and I wanted to do the Blue Cave snorkeling tour combined with some fishing on Wednesday, but due to the full moon (yet again), the tides were too high, which made the seas too rough for the cave. Simon didn't show up, so we went to Epai instead. Epai is a kastom village, which means the villagers have turned their backs on Western ways and continue to live in the tradition of their ancestors. The children don't go to school, and the village is completely self-sustainable: plenty of food, shelter, and water to drink.

The sound of a conch shell announced our arrival and seemed to say, "They're coming! They're coming! Take your places!" Suddenly the villagers all had a job to do: entertain the white folks who are so "evolved" they are amazed at basic survival skills. We were escorted to different stations where we watched demonstrations of kastom life, sampled food (figs with salt, coconut in fig leaves, roasted banana with coconut, and nangai nut, which is the seed of a fruit and tastes like a cross between coconut and almond), and tried their version of archery.

At the end of the tour, there were a few handicrafts for sale. The price tags all had names on them, so the funds would go to the appropriate crafter (lots of whispering whenever we touched something). As far as I could tell, money at this point doesn't buy much more than some dye for baskets. Although as time goes on, I will be curious to know, "How will tourism/money affect a self-sufficient community?"

On the way back to the resort, our driver, Louie, took us down White Sand Beach, past children playing soccer (Like the rest of the world, the people of Tanna are huge soccer fans, and even in the hills of Epai, word traveled fast that Australia had beat Japan in the World Cup) and outrigger canoes lining the ocean. I regret missing the photo opportunity. It was extrordinary.

2006-06-21T13:05:00.000+10:00

Making Laplap

2006-06-21T13:04:00.001+10:00

I'd heard the Ni-Vanuatu traded pigs for wives, but I'd hoped they would have been bigger than chickens. Just kidding. In Epai, the pig must have tusks before it can be traded for a wife. And "trade" may not be a fair word. Traditionally the groom must give the bride's family a pig. Perhaps one of the affects of wage will be bigger pigs for better wives?

2006-06-21T13:04:00.000+10:00

Cute Village Boy

2006-06-21T13:01:00.000+10:00

The huts in the village weren't special to Epai. Most of the homes we saw all over Tanna looked similar. In fact, we didn't see any homes that would pass as a "house." Our guide, Mary, explained that in Epai, each family gets two huts. One is for sleeping and the other is for cooking. There was also a low-set hut for storms and a large one for circumcisions. In Epai, boys are circumcised around four to five years of age. They must stay in the circumcision hut for three months. No women are allowed in the huts, so no Mommy. When they come out there is a big celebration with a feast and dancing.

2006-06-21T12:59:00.000+10:00

Using Leaves as Stretchers

2006-06-21T12:46:00.000+10:00

Basic Survival Skill

2006-06-21T12:44:00.000+10:00

I've never seen a contestant on Survivor make a fire like this. He rubbed the wood together and then piled up the hot ash, which he poured onto a nest of dried twigs.

2006-06-21T12:42:00.000+10:00

A Proud Fire. He self-applauded.

2006-06-21T09:10:00.000+10:00

Local Cutie Pies Demonstrating a Game.

2006-06-21T09:08:00.000+10:00

We did join in the dancing. They were playing a game where everyone dances in a circle holding hands. One guy stood in the middle and randomly grabbed my legs. Then everyone shouted, "Australia!"

2006-06-21T08:04:00.000+10:00

Mary was the only one in the village who spoke English and French. Other than coffee and a couple of books for the kids I picked up at the airport, the basket was the only souvenir I purchased, I was also given one by a local. Not much shopping in Tanna. Handicrafts are practicle.

2006-06-21T07:51:00.000+10:00

Coral, Hibiscus, and Kava

2006-06-19T15:06:00.001+10:00

After an hour long flight and five minute transfer, we arrived at White Grass Ocean Resort, one of the most stunning places on earth. With all the amenities of a resort (pool, tennis courts, etcetera), it has the feel of a bed and breakfast. Managers, Rod and Bev are kind of amazing, providing authentic experiences for tourists while maintaining a balance of opportunities for the locals without exploiting them. Put away whatever stereotypes you may have about "resort" and "tour." Tanna is not Vila.

The restaurant is gorgeous, and the food was great, though Brett was disappointed that Lobster wasn't on the menu. Blame the full moon. The fishermen spear the lobster from the reef, but a full moon provides too much light. The lobster can see the spears coming. Brett did not give up his quest, and within a couple of days had just about every fisherman on the island hunting lobster for him.

After lunch, we went snorkeling at Blue Hole 2 ("The Good One"). Blue Hole 2 is left at the driveway, down the track, through the cattle gate, past the blue house, and left towards the ocean. And it was incredible! There was so much to see considering how close it was to shore. The reef of coral and lava rock went twelve meters down and visibility was great. Blue Hole 2 is my fantasy backyard lap pool. I could swim up and down and around the reef all day. Sorry no photos. I lost the camera shortly after photographing some clown fish for a certain Nemo fan.

In the afternoon, we hiked up the White Grass Plains to see the wild horses. We got as far as the cows and turned around. The track was overgrown, and we weren't sure if we were actually still on it. We wanted to try again but didn't get the chance.

Around 4:00pm, we walked down the road, past the airport, and to a kava bar. The men of Vanuatu drink kava at sunset. Apparently while drinking kava, your eyes become very sensitive to light. This tradition makes a lot of sense, as sunset is when a lot of people are finishing work. Kava in Vanuatu is made from the root of the kava plant. The kava bars we went to ground it, though up in the hills, there are still places that make it by chewing. At worst kava makes the men tired and possibly a bit lackadaisical in the morning. At best, it makes them placid and laid back, and it's certainly a better alternative to communities who turn to alcohol.

The kava bar was an experience. It was really dark with a bunch of men hacking and spitting around the bar. Two boys poured the kava for Brett (traditionally pre-pubescent boys make the kava). Due to hygiene reasons, we had our own bottle (as opposed to sharing coconut shells) and took the kava back to the resort. By the time we got back, we were so hungry, we had to eat, not realizing that kava does not work (except for the slightest tingle of a numbing tongue) on a full stomach. Oh well. I wanted to get a photo of the men at the kava bar but thought I was pushing it being there in the first place. I did, however, manage to get a shot of the bar in the daylight:

2006-06-19T15:06:00.000+10:00

Antique Twin Otter

2006-06-19T15:05:00.000+10:00

Tanna Airport

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Cow waiting for flight.

2006-06-19T15:01:00.000+10:00

The Main Road

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Our Bed

2006-06-19T14:58:00.000+10:00

Fern Figure

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Our Bungalow

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Lazy Bones

2006-06-19T14:54:00.000+10:00

Future Site in Lonely Planet Yachting Guide

2006-06-19T14:51:00.000+10:00

Another Great View

2006-06-19T14:50:00.000+10:00

White Grass Plains

2006-06-19T14:47:00.000+10:00

The body of water just before the ocean is Blue Hole 2.

2006-06-19T14:44:00.000+10:00

These are banned in Australia

2006-06-19T14:42:00.000+10:00

Yellow Flowers on Bush

2006-06-19T14:41:00.000+10:00

Coral and Rock outside Restaurant

2006-06-19T14:36:00.000+10:00

Even a Rainbow

2006-06-19T14:33:00.000+10:00

Cocktail Hour

2006-06-19T14:12:00.000+10:00

Room with a View

2006-06-19T13:55:00.000+10:00

Floral Arrangement outside our Bungalow

Port Vila

2006-06-18T18:52:00.000+10:00

On our way from Brisbane to Tanna, we had a layover in Port Vila, Efate, which is the capital of Vanuatu. Booked in at Le Meridien, we pushed our way onto "Le Meridien" bus, only to discover it was the wrong bus (our transfer voucher was a bit vague and there's not a lot of direction/instruction in Vila). The driver was only picking up a friend, but they were happy to transport us to the hotel, where we were greeted by Chief Sam (chief of the hotel--photo from Welcome Passport):

Once in the lobby, we were given shell necklaces, a welcome drink, and warm cloths to freshen up. Customer service everywhere we went in Vanuatu was an A+++.

We had complimentary beach-side massages and pool-side cocktails, before heading off to Tropik Bistro, a French restaurant recommended by the bartender. Though lacking in snails and frogs, the food (mine especially) was good yet expensive.

We walked around the markets, grabbed a Tusker (the local brew) at the yachting club, and caught a cab back to the hotel, where we watched a local female band play in the Lobby Bar.

Overall, Vila on a Monday night was pretty dead, though apparently we'd just missed the buzz from the fliming of Australia's Celebrity Survivor Vanuatu (more on that later).

2006-06-18T18:51:00.000+10:00

Rope Bridge

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Erakor Lagoon

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Cocktails at the Swim-up Bar.